I'm a photography dummy who doesn't own a DSLR camera, and this was my situation. To take photos of birds, which usually keep their distance, I bought a point-and-shoot camera (Panasonic DMC-TZ70) with 30x zoom factor. I had a hard time aiming at the birds at high zoom and just when I started to regretted buying this expensive camera, I chanced upon a online post about this issue. I emailed one helpful poster, Mr Erik Ohlson (thanks!), about how to make a bracket to attach a red-dot-sight for my TZ70.
The main obstacle about making this bracket is that I live in Singapore. There isn't a Radio Shack, Walmart, Bunnings where I can get the required parts easily. I also don't own a car, making the search for parts across Singapore really painful. The following guide is my solution for my specific problem. If you intend to attach a red-dot-sight to a DSLR that has a Hot Shoe, the solution is much easier. I will include this at the end of the post.
The photo below shows the bracket I made. Both the camera and red-dot-sight are removable from the bracket. In case you're wondering, the white stuff underneath the camera is not Plasticine - this is a sturdy bracket that I'm able to used under the hot sun.
Item | Description | Source | Cost (in 2015) | |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Red-dot-sight (Brand: Field Sport red and green reflex sight with 4 reticles) | NA | Amazon, Vpost | US$18.62 |
2 | Camera D-ring screws 1/4 inch | To screw the camera to the bracket | Amazon, Vpost | US$6.99 |
3 | Camera strap | So that you can hang the bracket around your neck | Amazon, Vpost | US$12.95 |
4 | Brass metal sheet (30x5cm), I chosen the thickest | Function as the base of the bracket | ArtFriend, Clementi | S$17.45 |
5 | One long acrylic triangle rod, I forgot the size | Function as the “dovetail” rod for the red-dot-sight to clamp on | ArtFriend, Clementi | S$4? |
6 | Epoxy putty (Brand: Bondite) | Keep the camera in place in the bracket | Any hardware store | S$6 |
7 | Cling wrap (Brand: Glad) | To wrap the camera, before applying Epoxy to it | Any supermarket | Forgot |
8 | Rubber tip for stool legs | To cushion between the D-ring and the brass metal sheet | Any hardware store | Forgot |
9 | Super glue | To glue the Acrylic triangle rods into a “dovetail” rod | Diaso | S$2 |
10 | Tools: Hand saw that can cut acrylic and metal | To cut the acrylic rod and brass metal sheet | Most hardware store | S$6? |
11 | Tools: Drill press that can drill 1/4 inch or slightly larger holes in brass metal sheet. | To drill the brass metal sheet | Find a good friend that has access to a workshop with drill press. | NA |
The photo below shows some of the items in the list above, in case the description above is non-obvious.
The photo below shows how the items comes together to form the bracket.
Step 1: Measure the red-dot-sight and camera. This is to determine the length of the brass sheet to cut. The measurement shown below may not work for you. Naturally you would go to hardware shops to buy metal sheets, but for weeks, I found none. In the end ArtFriend that sells arts and craft materials is my friend. Who knew?
- Mark on the brass sheet, on where the camera, its tripod screw mount hole, and the red-dot-sight should be at.
- Leave 1 to 2 cm buffer between the camera and red-dot-sight.
- For me, I cut the brass metal at 12 cm length.
- Then cut off 3 pieces of acrylic triangular rod, each with length 8.2 cm.
- This was done with my old cheap handsaw with different blades for cutting metal, wood and plastic. When sawing, always wear safety goggles and have another person around, in case of accidents.
Step 2: Assemble the 3 acrylic rods with super glue, to make the "dovetail rail". It allows the red-dot-sight to clamp onto it. Ideally you should get a small aluminium rod and file it into a dovetail rail. It was really difficult (maybe even impossible) to buy a single piece of solid aluminium rod in Singapore. This work around is a good solution for me. Super glued acrylic rods does not seem to have heat expansion problems under the hot sun. After assembly, check that your red-dot-sight is able to clamp onto the acrylic dovetail rail.
Step 3: Find a friend who has access to a workshop with a drill press. Drill a hole in the brass sheet, the size should be 1/4 inch or slightly larger. It was really difficult to find anyone with a drill press/ workshop in Singapore, since the majority of us live in small apartments. Do not use hand held drills, what you need a proper, steady, heavy drill press like those you find in polytechnics technical workshops. Again, wear safety goggles and have someone around when drilling.
Step 4: Cut a section of the stool leg rubber tip off, poke a hole on it, such that the D-ring screw can go through it. Check that the D-ring screw is able hold the camera and brass sheet together in a tight fit.
Step 5: To ensure that the camera does not move around when screwed in, we should add epoxy to the brass sheet to hold the camera in. Extend the camera to the maximum zoom, then cover it with cling wrap (I used 2 layers), D-ring screw it to the brass sheet. Apply some epoxy putty around the edges of the camera such that you are still able to remove the camera afterwards. Removed the camera and let the epoxy cure/ harden for 2 days.
Step 6: Super glue the acrylic dovetail rail to the brass sheet, use a few layers of super glue for more strength (.i.e. dry, coat, dry, coat). And that should be it. Put the camera and red-dot-sight together on the bracket, calibrate, and happy shooting.
If you have a DSLR camera with a Hot Shoe, you can purchase red-dot-sight with a Hot Shoe adaptor. I saw this on Amazon, but I can't confirm if it does indeed comes with the Hot Shoe adaptor/ camera mount.
Alternatively, you can download a 3D printer STL file of a Hot Shoe adaptor for red-dot-sight, and get it printed at any local 3D printing company. They offer 3D printing in plastic and metal. I myself have not try this.
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